guatemala – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com Cruising World is your go-to site and magazine for the best sailboat reviews, liveaboard sailing tips, chartering tips, sailing gear reviews and more. Sat, 06 May 2023 21:41:14 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.1 https://www.cruisingworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/favicon-crw-1.png guatemala – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com 32 32 Cruisers Volunteer to Make a Difference https://www.cruisingworld.com/story/people/cruisers-volunteer-to-make-a-difference/ Thu, 28 Jan 2021 02:45:11 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=43734 Sailors in the Rio Dulce donate their time and gear to local villages through Pass It On Guatemala.

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Guatemala
Eager to lend a hand with volunteer organization Pass It On Guatemala, the author (on left), was happy to help the ­residents at a local retirement home. Amy Flannery

While my husband, Ken, and I were in Rio Dulce, Guatemala, aboard our Morgan 38, Mary T., I was eager to experience village life beyond the typical cruiser hangouts, and I was intrigued by the work of a charity called Pass It On Guatemala. Julia Bartlett, a British cruiser, created the organization in 2014 after sailing from England and island hopping through the Caribbean. Currently in her mid-70s, she has the energy of a teenager and works nearly every waking hour on her charity, without renumeration. She winces at the appellation of “Saint.”

When I first met Bartlett in 2016, Pass It On Guatemala (­passitonguatemala.org) had one simple mission: recycling discarded boat batteries and solar panels to light up schools and clinics in remote villages. Schools often double as community centers, and with the lights, village councils could hold meetings at night. Pass It On also offers solar lanterns to households with school children. “Kids were straining their eyes studying by candlelight or kerosene lamps,” Bartlett explained.

Over the years, the organization has expanded its mission. Now the team brings villagers first-aid kits, copies of Where There Is No Doctor in Spanish, eyeglasses and soccer balls. At an old-folks home for the poorest of the poor, ­volunteers prepare lunch, offer medical supplies, and shower the needy residents with smiles and hugs. Pass It On has also given scholarships to high school students, and puts on an annual lifesaving course for marina employees.

The charity is as much a boon to the environment and cruisers as it is to Guatemalans. Bartlett and her volunteers come directly to your boat to pick up used batteries and solar panels. Cruisers donate everything, from old boat parts to sails and clothes, which Pass It On sells at a bimonthly cruisers flea market, the organization’s primary source of revenue. Bartlett is the queen of recycling, reusing and repurposing.

Before I got the chance to go out to a village on an installation mission, I fell down in the marina parking lot and fractured my patella. Splat! All I could do was work the flea market and live vicariously through other volunteers, an eclectic bunch from around the globe. They described villages full of friendly, smiling children living in simple wooden homes with thatch or tin roofs and women cooking over open fires. Though most are subsistence farmers, a small number of villagers commute to towns for low-paying jobs. Rice and beans are their mainstay, but they always provide their best to volunteers, often offering chicken or fish for lunch.

“When we get it all set up and the lights go on, the kids clap and cheer,” said Rick, from Sojourner, a Pacific Seacraft 37. A former auto mechanic and owner of rental properties, he’s no stranger to electrical installations and is an invaluable asset in the field. “The first time I went to a village, we rode in the back of a pickup truck for over an hour and then hiked uphill for two hours,” he said. “When we got there, everyone gathered around us. They were fascinated by the electric drill. They’d never seen one before.”

testing batteries
A cruiser volunteer tested the voltage on batteries donated by other cruisers. Amy Flannery

What Rick liked best about volunteering was interacting with all the kids, and imparting his knowledge of electricity and wiring. “There was this one little boy in a village who followed me like a shadow. Every time I turned around, he was right there smiling at me, watching everything I did. I know people say it all the time, but helping others really does feel good, especially when you’re providing something folks really need.”

Jim on Dreamaway, a Hardin 45, echoed Rick’s feelings. “These people have next to nothing, but they’re so happy and grateful for what we’re offering. The kids get really excited when we come.” Jim spoke glowingly of the villagers’ work ethic and the democratic fashion in which the village councils operate. “It’s impressive,” he said. With his shock of white curly hair and beard, many kids think Jim is Santa Claus. “I tell them that the North Pole is too cold this time of year, so I like to come down here.”

Rick aboard Sojourner
As a former auto mechanic, Rick (aboard Sojourner, his Pacific Seacraft 37) was no stranger to electrical installations and was a valuable team member. Amy Flannery

Volunteers travel out to the sites in the back of a pickup truck or via motorboat, or lancha, to villages closer to the river. A few villagers always meet the team at the drop-off point to carry batteries and solar panels to the final destination, often a difficult uphill trek.

Bartlett’s right-hand woman and village liaison is a Guatemalan named Irene. She is one of the few paid employees at Pass It On. Irene studied to be a social worker, so Pass It On is right up her alley. She said: “My parents told me, ‘Today for you; tomorrow for me,’ like we should think of others before ourselves.”

Irene discusses logistics and protocol with village representatives before volunteers come out. She explains they are coming to install a lighting system and instruct people how to maintain it. Then it is in the villagers’ hands. Irene told me that one village refused Pass It On’s offer of lights because they were afraid the volunteers would steal their children. “These villages are different from where I grew up. I like to get out and see how other people live. I want to see as much of my country as possible.” Irene and her German partner will soon sail for Panama, then through the canal on their 36-foot ketch. “I don’t know what I’ll do without her,” Bartlett lamented.

kids in the village getting their pictures taken
In just about every village the volunteers visited, the kids loved to have their pictures taken. Amy Flannery

Fabien—who is part of the “alternative sailing community” alternativesailing.org, a group of cruising musicians and performing artists that rehabs old sailboats with recycled materials—has been out to several villages with Pass It On. “Before sailing, I hiked all through Central and South America. Often I had no money, and people took me in. This is the least I can do for them, and it’s a good excuse to get away from boatwork.” Fabien speaks good Spanish, and likes to joke around and make everyone laugh. Distributing eyeglasses is his preferred job because it involves a lot of interaction with the people.

Some of the older villagers are illiterate, so Bartlett devised an ingenious method to test vision by having folks thread needles. Those who can read are thrilled when they receive new lenses. “They are excited that they can read the bible again,” Fabien said. “Some of them get all shy and giggly when we hand them the mirror to check out the frames,” said Lori, a retired nurse volunteer. Lori gets a charge out of the kids, who initially hide their faces and later poke her in the side, begging to be photographed.

When my knee was feeling stronger, I was able to make a trip with volunteers to Méson Bueno Samaritano, the old-folks home. Dixie, one of the lead volunteers at the home, told me: “You have to go in with an open mind, without any expectations, and let things happen organically. You can’t try to immediately fix or change everything. It’s not our culture. It’s not our country. Sometimes we have trouble with the level of cleanliness or with the way the residents are treated by staff, but we can’t tell them what to do. We have to go slowly,” Dixie explained.

Irene
Village liaison Irene led volunteers into the countryside. Amy Flannery

When I met Dixie and Jos, the other lead volunteer, in the Mar Marine lounge, they were unraveling rolls of toilet paper to create smaller ones. I was curious about what they were doing, and they explained that someone at the old-folks home was stealing the donated rolls of toilet paper from the bathrooms. With the smaller rolls, volunteers could discreetly hand them out to residents, who would put them in their pockets.

“The residents love it when we show up,” Dixie added. “People always want to help kids, but they forget about old people. They need love too. When it’s time to leave, the residents hold on to us and beg us to take them away. That’s the hardest part.”

Bartlett envisions an online network connecting sailors interested in volunteering with organizations that need their time and skills. “That way, when cruisers arrive in port and want to pitch in, they will already know where to go. There are volunteer opportunities all over the Caribbean.”

Volunteering is great way to give back to host countries, meet other cruisers, and pass the time when you’re stuck in port. You’ll forget about yourself, get a close-up view of another culture, and make a difference in people’s lives. Isn’t that what cruising is all about anyway?

Amy Flannery, Ken Kurlychek and Mary T are at home in Bradenton, Florida, waiting out the pandemic before making future cruising plans.W

hile my husband, Ken, and I were in Rio Dulce, Guatemala, aboard our Morgan 38, Mary T., I was eager to experience village life beyond the typical cruiser hangouts, and I was intrigued by the work of a charity called Pass It On Guatemala. Julia Bartlett, a British cruiser, created the organization in 2014 after sailing from England and island hopping through the Caribbean. Currently in her mid-70s, she has the energy of a teenager and works nearly every waking hour on her charity, without renumeration. She winces at the appellation of “Saint.”

Manicure
Volunteer Jos gave a manicure to a retirement-home resident. Amy Flannery

When I first met Bartlett in 2016, Pass It On Guatemala (­passitonguatemala.org) had one simple mission: recycling discarded boat batteries and solar panels to light up schools and clinics in remote villages. Schools often double as community centers, and with the lights, village councils could hold meetings at night. Pass It On also offers solar lanterns to households with school children. “Kids were straining their eyes studying by candlelight or kerosene lamps,” Bartlett explained.

Over the years, the organization has expanded its mission. Now the team brings villagers first-aid kits, copies of Where There Is No Doctor in Spanish, eyeglasses and soccer balls. At an old-folks home for the poorest of the poor, ­volunteers prepare lunch, offer medical supplies, and shower the needy residents with smiles and hugs. Pass It On has also given scholarships to high school students, and puts on an annual lifesaving course for marina employees.

The charity is as much a boon to the environment and cruisers as it is to Guatemalans. Bartlett and her volunteers come directly to your boat to pick up used batteries and solar panels. Cruisers donate everything, from old boat parts to sails and clothes, which Pass It On sells at a bimonthly cruisers flea market, the organization’s primary source of revenue. Bartlett is the queen of recycling, reusing and repurposing.

Before I got the chance to go out to a village on an installation mission, I fell down in the marina parking lot and fractured my patella. Splat! All I could do was work the flea market and live vicariously through other volunteers, an eclectic bunch from around the globe. They described villages full of friendly, smiling children living in simple wooden homes with thatch or tin roofs and women cooking over open fires. Though most are subsistence farmers, a small number of villagers commute to towns for low-paying jobs. Rice and beans are their mainstay, but they always provide their best to volunteers, often offering chicken or fish for lunch.

“When we get it all set up and the lights go on, the kids clap and cheer,” said Rick, from Sojourner, a Pacific Seacraft 37. A former auto mechanic and owner of rental properties, he’s no stranger to electrical installations and is an invaluable asset in the field. “The first time I went to a village, we rode in the back of a pickup truck for over an hour and then hiked uphill for two hours,” he said. “When we got there, everyone gathered around us. They were fascinated by the electric drill. They’d never seen one before.”

What Rick liked best about volunteering was interacting with all the kids, and imparting his knowledge of electricity and wiring. “There was this one little boy in a village who followed me like a shadow. Every time I turned around, he was right there smiling at me, watching everything I did. I know people say it all the time, but helping others really does feel good, especially when you’re providing something folks really need.”

Jim on Dreamaway, a Hardin 45, echoed Rick’s feelings. “These people have next to nothing, but they’re so happy and grateful for what we’re offering. The kids get really excited when we come.” Jim spoke glowingly of the villagers’ work ethic and the democratic fashion in which the village councils operate. “It’s impressive,” he said. With his shock of white curly hair and beard, many kids think Jim is Santa Claus. “I tell them that the North Pole is too cold this time of year, so I like to come down here.”

Volunteers travel out to the sites in the back of a pickup truck or via motorboat, or lancha, to villages closer to the river. A few villagers always meet the team at the drop-off point to carry batteries and solar panels to the final destination, often a difficult uphill trek.

Bartlett’s right-hand woman and village liaison is a Guatemalan named Irene. She is one of the few paid employees at Pass It On. Irene studied to be a social worker, so Pass It On is right up her alley. She said: “My parents told me, ‘Today for you; tomorrow for me,’ like we should think of others before ourselves.”

Fabien and Victoria
Cruisers Fabien and Victoria aboard Orfin. Amy Flannery

Irene discusses logistics and protocol with village representatives before volunteers come out. She explains they are coming to install a lighting system and instruct people how to maintain it. Then it is in the villagers’ hands. Irene told me that one village refused Pass It On’s offer of lights because they were afraid the volunteers would steal their children. “These villages are different from where I grew up. I like to get out and see how other people live. I want to see as much of my country as possible.” Irene and her German partner will soon sail for Panama, then through the canal on their 36-foot ketch. “I don’t know what I’ll do without her,” Bartlett lamented.

Fabien—who is part of the “alternative sailing community” (alternativesailing.org), a group of cruising musicians and performing artists that rehabs old sailboats with recycled materials—has been out to several villages with Pass It On. “Before sailing, I hiked all through Central and South America. Often I had no money, and people took me in. This is the least I can do for them, and it’s a good excuse to get away from boatwork.” Fabien speaks good Spanish, and likes to joke around and make everyone laugh. Distributing eyeglasses is his preferred job because it involves a lot of interaction with the people.

Some of the older villagers are illiterate, so Bartlett devised an ingenious method to test vision by having folks thread needles. Those who can read are thrilled when they receive new lenses. “They are excited that they can read the bible again,” Fabien said. “Some of them get all shy and giggly when we hand them the mirror to check out the frames,” said Lori, a retired nurse volunteer. Lori gets a charge out of the kids, who initially hide their faces and later poke her in the side, begging to be photographed.

When my knee was feeling stronger, I was able to make a trip with volunteers to Méson Bueno Samaritano, the old-folks home. Dixie, one of the lead volunteers at the home, told me: “You have to go in with an open mind, without any expectations, and let things happen organically. You can’t try to immediately fix or change everything. It’s not our culture. It’s not our country. Sometimes we have trouble with the level of cleanliness or with the way the residents are treated by staff, but we can’t tell them what to do. We have to go slowly,” Dixie explained.

Fabien and Victoria
Fabien and Victoria helped at the flea market. Amy Flannery

When I met Dixie and Jos, the other lead volunteer, in the Mar Marine lounge, they were unraveling rolls of toilet paper to create smaller ones. I was curious about what they were doing, and they explained that someone at the old-folks home was stealing the donated rolls of toilet paper from the bathrooms. With the smaller rolls, volunteers could discreetly hand them out to residents, who would put them in their pockets.

“The residents love it when we show up,” Dixie added. “People always want to help kids, but they forget about old people. They need love too. When it’s time to leave, the residents hold on to us and beg us to take them away. That’s the hardest part.”

Bartlett envisions an online network connecting sailors interested in volunteering with organizations that need their time and skills. “That way, when cruisers arrive in port and want to pitch in, they will already know where to go. There are volunteer opportunities all over the Caribbean.”

Volunteering is great way to give back to host countries, meet other cruisers, and pass the time when you’re stuck in port. You’ll forget about yourself, get a close-up view of another culture, and make a difference in people’s lives. Isn’t that what cruising is all about anyway?

Amy Flannery, Ken Kurlychek and Mary T are at home in Bradenton, Florida, waiting out the pandemic before making future cruising plans.

The post Cruisers Volunteer to Make a Difference appeared first on Cruising World.

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Rio Dulce: More than a Hurricane Hole https://www.cruisingworld.com/rio-dulce-more-than-hurricane-hole/ Mon, 10 Jul 2017 22:37:50 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=43634 A cruising couple followed the crowd to Guatemala’s Rio Dulce to hide from storms, and discovered a verdant jungle teeming with culture.

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Rio Dulce: More than a Hurricane Hole Amy Flannery

Slowly gliding up a creek in a launcha (a small, open powerboat), we spotted howler monkeys overhead in the branches of a breadnut tree. Usually, their haunting cries were frightening enough to scare the dead, but that day the howlers were quietly lounging on limbs, snacking on fruit. Farther up the creek, we encountered a father-and-son team skimming silently across the water in a cayuco, or canoe.

My husband, Ken, and I were visiting Guatemala’s Rio Dulce, or “sweet river.” It winds through cliffs and thick jungle for 20 miles, from its mouth in the Caribbean to the town of Fronteras, also known as Rio Dulce. It is a busy freshwater highway, and the focal point of life for those who live on its banks. The most common modes of transportation are cayucos and launchas. We saw locals washing clothes, bathing, and swimming in the river to cool off in the heat of the day, and young children paddling and fishing. Just beyond the town of Rio Dulce, the river opens up into the enchanting Lago de Izabal. Surrounded by verdant mountains, it is Guatemala’s largest lake.

When we made the decision to sail to Rio Dulce, I was most concerned about our safety; cruisers were killed there by robbers as recently as 2008. I also wondered about finding a marina where Mary T, our Morgan 38, would be looked after properly in our absence during the hurricane season. And then there was the bus ride from the marina to the airport in Guatemala City, because I’d heard horror stories of attacks on public transportation by armed bandits.

In my preoccupation with these concerns, I had failed to deeply consider the geography or the culture. I was blown away by what I found: a rich history; lush, majestic landscape; gentle people; tasty food; and everything ultimately affordable. And as it turned out, all my worries were for naught. The authorities have taken care of the highwaymen, and there are plenty of excellent marinas from which to choose.

Departing Livingston, on the Caribbean coast, and heading up the river feels like a trip back in time. Locals in cayucos tossed their hand-woven fishing nets in high arcs so they descended gracefully to the water to catch mojarra and robalo, which were offered at most restaurants. We followed the river as it wound through a jungle-­cloaked canyon that was featured in a 1935 Tarzan movie. Eventually, the cliffs gave way to gentler slopes. Dwellings of all sizes, with elegantly crafted thatched roofs, dotted the river banks, blending gracefully into the lush backdrop. There were no mega hotels of glass and steel marring the landscape here.

Rio Dulce
We anchored Mary T in Cayo Quemado and went exploring by kayak. Amy Flannery

Continuing upriver toward the town of Rio Dulce, the waters widened into an area called El Golfete. I was astounded by the vistas of mountain ranges to the north and south. On the south side of El Golfete, we anchored at Cayo Quemado, or Burnt Key. Many refer to it as Texan Bay because a cruiser named Mike, from Texas, used to run the marina and restaurant on the hill. Now Burnt Key Marina is operated by a Dutch merchant-marine captain named Maurits, while Mike manages the restaurant, Manglar, next door. Maurits told us he had traveled the world over by boat and decided to settle in Cayo Quemado because he’d finally found paradise. We explored the well-protected anchorage’s little creeks by kayak and dinghy. We frequently saw men and women of diminutive stature and advanced age carrying tremendous loads of corn or rice on their backs and heads. Locals living on the banks approached Mary T, selling handcrafted wares and coconut bread from their cayucos. They came with precious little children who looked up at us with dark, soulful eyes, making it nearly impossible not to buy something.

A short dinghy ride from Cayo Quemado, we visited a cave; augas calientes, or hot springs; and a natural sauna. At the restaurant on-site, we had delicious fresh fish and local fare. Felix, our cave guide, was a spritely man of 70 who skipped up the steep stone path to the cave like a man a third his age.

Twelve miles upriver from Cayo Quemado, we came to Puente Rio Dulce, the longest bridge in Central America, which crosses the river from the town of Rio Dulce to Relleno on the other bank. We had arrived at the heart of the region, where hundreds of cruisers enjoying the western Caribbean flock to store their vessels for hurricane season. It is 20 miles inland and rarely touched by those ocean storms. Everywhere we looked, there were masts.

Rio Dulce is a small, dusty, bustling town with stores and vendors’ stalls going right up to the edge of the road. Squeezing between cattle trucks and fruit stands in the heavy traffic required a certain amount of agility, but shopping was a pleasure because the produce was so affordable and fresh. Mangos, papayas, avocados and other local fruits cost less than half of what we were used to paying in the States. There were dozens of restaurants, and vendors grilling meat right on the street. We ate the traditional lunch, which included corn tortillas, beans, rice and meat for around 30 quetzales ($4 USD).

Rio Dulce
There are a bunch of marinas where you can do maintenance or leave your boat for the season. Monkey Bay Marina is downriver from the bustle of downtown Rio Dulce, and a good choice if you’re looking for a quieter vibe. Amy Flannery

When we wanted to avoid the noise and heat of downtown, we bought food right on the river. Folks from Casa Guatemala, a local orphanage, came twice a week by launcha to the marinas and anchored their boats to hawk fresh produce, meats and cheeses. We could reach dozens of restaurants by dinghy. Most served fresh local fare with a western twist. Our favorites were the Sundog Cafe, for its excellent drinks and pizzas, and Bruno’s Marina. One cruiser cooked and sold lunch right from her boat for 25 quetzales a plate. We listened to the morning cruisers net for announcements of the daily lunch specials at a number of restaurants.

We found plenty of places to explore in and around Rio Dulce. One of these excursions was to the historic Castillo San Felipe, a well-preserved fort located at the bend in the river where the Rio Dulce meets Lago de Izabal. The 17th-century edifice was built by the Spanish to protect their territory from the British and pirates. We rode launchas to sites up and down the river that were too far to go by dinghy or kayak. Lago de Izabal was a fine place to see. We took Mary T, but we also could have seen it by launcha. There were a few restaurants and protected spots to anchor on its shores. We enjoyed investigating the many creeks off the river in search of howler monkeys, rare birds and restaurants. We discovered two eco-hotels hidden up creeks in the mangroves: Casa Perico and Kangaroo. Both were great stops for lunch and beverages.

One day, Ken and I ventured out of town on a collectivo bus to Finca El Paraiso, where we swam under a near scalding-hot waterfall that emptied into a cool pool. When it started getting busy there, we hopped on another collectivo to El Boqueron, where an old man took us for a ride in his cayuco up an enchanting river canyon. The return collectivo trip to Rio Dulce involved some acts of contortion as we were obliged to stand hunched over the other passengers until seats became available.

Rio Dulce
We took our dinghy to see the Castillo San Felipe at the entrance to Lago de Izabal. Amy Flannery

More comfortable, air-conditioned buses were available for travel farther afield. Antigua Guatemala, the beautifully preserved former capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala and a UNESCO World Heritage site, was definitely worth the visit. Volcanoes provided the backdrop to brightly painted colonial buildings and grand cathedrals in various stages of decay. The town of Panajachel on Lake Atitlan was another must-see. This breathtaking crater lake is surrounded by mountains and three volcanoes. In both places, vendors plied the streets with brightly colored hand-woven fabrics and trinkets.

Boat maintenance in Rio Dulce cost a fraction of what we’ve paid in the United States. There were a number of skilled locals and expats who did every kind of boat work imaginable. We had a new mainsail sewn by an Italian expat named Luigi, and folks at Captain John’s varnished our Morgan 38 inside and out, and had it looking better than ever upon our return from the States.

We found Rio Dulce’s cruising community to be very active and generous. I was most impressed by the volunteer work being undertaken in remote villages, including a volunteer organization called Pass It On Guatemala that brings solar panels and boat batteries to provide light to clinics and school. The smiles on the faces of the villagers when the lights go on is the payoff for volunteers.

The cruisers in Rio Dulce set an inspiring example. We sailors can only go so long treating ourselves with new vistas, adventures and local cuisine, right? At some point we need to do something for someone else. Pass it on.

Amy Flannery is a filmmaker and lives aboard the Morgan 38 Mary T with her husband, Ken Kurlychek.

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