Greece – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com Cruising World is your go-to site and magazine for the best sailboat reviews, liveaboard sailing tips, chartering tips, sailing gear reviews and more. Thu, 09 Nov 2023 16:58:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.1 https://www.cruisingworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/favicon-crw-1.png Greece – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com 32 32 Myth-Busting Flotillas https://www.cruisingworld.com/sponsored-post/myth-busting-flotillas/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 04:00:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=48824 Whether you have a family that’s new to sailing or are an old salt who’s ready to try a new cruising ground, a Sunsail flotilla sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you need.

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Sunsail flotilla
Whether you have a family that’s new to sailing or are an old salt who’s ready to try a new cruising ground, a Sunsail flotilla sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you need. Sunsail

Did you know that one of the most popular ways to go on a sailing vacation in the Med is to join a flotilla? It’s a relatively novel concept in the North America and Caribbean charter markets, but if you want to expand your sailing horizons, it might be just what you’re looking for—whether you’re a newcomer to sailing or an old salt. Curious? Let’s look at what a Sunsail flotilla is and what the experience is like by debunking some misconceptions.

flotilla sailing vacation
A flotilla sailing vacation is for anyone looking to get out on the water. Sunsail

What is a Flotilla?

In its most basic form, a flotilla is a group of yachts chartering together with some extra support and a structured itinerary. What does this look like in practice? A Sunsail flotilla typically lasts one or two weeks, and has about 8-10 participating boats along with a lead boat, which has a skipper, technician (to help with any mechanical issues on the boats) and host. Depending on the route and timing, there might even be an activity coordinator just for kids.

Sivota
A Sunsail flotilla has about 8-10 participating boats along with a lead boat, which has a skipper, technician (to help with any mechanical issues on the boats) and host. Sunsail

What makes the experience special is all the details such as sailing routes, moorings and marina stays, are worked out ahead of time, and there is a variety of optional planned activities. Each morning, the flotilla skipper hosts a chart briefing to go over the day’s journey and any weather updates, as well as places of interest to visit. As the boats arrive at the destination, the lead boat crew is there for assistance with tying up at the night’s mooring or dock. The flotilla host plans events, like beach barbecues, punch parties and group dinners, so you can get to know your sailing group. The host can also direct you to the best restaurants, beaches and local attractions. 

swimming
What makes the experience special is all the details such as sailing routes, moorings and marina stays, are worked out ahead of time, and there is a variety of optional planned activities. Sunsail

Sunsail flotillas are primarily available in the Mediterranean at bases in Croatia, Greece and Italy. Each flotilla destination has a unique itinerary, so you can choose something that interests you. Want some action? Try kitesurfing on a Lefkas, Greece, flotilla. Is history your thing? You’ll find an abundance of historical sites to visit on Sunsail’s new flotilla route from Dubrovnik, Croatia, to Montenegro. For something a little different, Sunsail also offers themed food and wine flotillas in Italy. Now that most pandemic-related restrictions have ended for travelers to Europe, it’s the perfect time to book your dream Med sailing vacation.

Still have some questions? Let’s bust some myths about flotilla charters!

Vounaki
Each flotilla destination has a unique itinerary, so you can choose something that interests you. Sunsail

Myth 1: I’ll be sharing the boat with strangers

Not true! Each boat on a Sunsail flotilla is booked and sailed individually, just like it would be if you were doing a bareboat charter. Just pick your crew and choose your boat! Alternatively, if you’re new to sailing (or just want to relax more), you can hire a skipper for the duration of the flotilla. Or you can turn the adventure into a real learning experience through the Sunsail Flotilla Hero program, which provides Royal Yachting Association instruction, allowing you to earn certification while on vacation.

Sunsail flotilla
Each boat on a Sunsail flotilla is booked and sailed individually, just like it would be if you were doing a bareboat charter. Sunsail

Myth 2: We will have to sail in a line from place to place and won’t have any freedom to do what we want.

This is a common misconception about flotilla charters, but nothing could be further from the truth! While there is a set flotilla itinerary, charterers are free to sail as they wish between destinations, and many itineraries include a free day, allowing crews to set their own agenda. Any planned activities, meals or excursions are optional.

sailing in the ocean
While there is a set flotilla itinerary, charterers are free to sail as they wish between destinations, and many itineraries include a free day, allowing crews to set their own agenda. Sunsail

Myth 3: Flotillas are only for beginner sailors. 

Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Just like a bareboat charter, however, the skipper of the boat needs to be qualified. If you’re planning on a Sunsail flotilla in the Med, you will need to have certifications through ASA 104 (Bareboat Cruising) or US Sailing Bareboat Cruising. After that, you can apply for an International Proficiency Certificate, which is the US equivalent to the International Certificate of Competence typically issued by the RYA.

Flotillas
Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Just like a bareboat charter, however, the skipper of the boat needs to be qualified. Sunsail

Many recently certified sailors enjoy the structure and additional support flotillas offer, which allows them to get a bit steadier on their sea legs before doing a solo bareboat charter. Are you an old salt but new to chartering in the Med? A flotilla is an excellent way to get familiar with a new cruising ground. Cruising with kids? Sunsail flotillas are great for families and provide opportunities for the kids to make some new friends.

Ionian Sea
Cruising with kids? Sunsail flotillas are great for families and provide opportunities for the kids to make some new friends. Sunsail

Ian Pedersen, Sunsail’s senior marketing manager, offers one piece of advice for someone looking to try their first flotilla: “Keep an open mind, and embrace the social aspect of the flotilla concept,” he says. “People from all over the world and all walks of life come together to celebrate a week on the water, and that is where lifelong acquaintances and friendships can be made. You begin the week as complete strangers, but shared experiences like this really have a way of bringing people together.”

If a flotilla adventure in the Med seems like the perfect remedy to the craziness of the last couple of years, Sunsail suggests booking early because dates for the remainder of 2022 and into 2023 are already filling up. Start booking by visiting www.sunsail.com/flotilla-sailing or speak to a Sunsail vacation planner directly by calling 800-734-5254.

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Back to Chartering (and Better than Ever) with The Moorings https://www.cruisingworld.com/sponsored-post/back-to-chartering-and-better-than-ever-with-the-moorings/ Thu, 28 Jul 2022 04:00:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=48814 Are you ready to get out there again? For many stir-crazy sailors, distant blue waters are beckoning after a tumultuous couple of years. A charter in the Bahamas, BVI or the Med may be just what you need.

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Moorings
Whether you’re after sunshine and beam reaches, rum drinks and reggae, or quiet anchorages and adventures ashore, a charter with The Moorings can have it all. The Moorings

There is nothing quite like a sailing vacation. Whether you’re after sunshine and beam reaches, rum drinks and reggae, or quiet anchorages and adventures ashore, a charter with The Moorings can have it all. Now that the world is opening back up, it’s time to ditch the staycation and choose a destination. Let’s take a look at where the hottest destinations are for 2022 and 2023, what’s changed in the world of charter sailing, and what you need to know before your next vacation.

Moorings charter boat
The Moorings

Back to the Bahamas, BVI and USVI

Long the most popular destinations for North American sailors, bases in the Virgin Islands and the Bahamas have had major setbacks from hurricanes and the pandemic. Fortunately, those days are mostly in our wake, and charter sailors can once again easily cruise the storied waters of the Sir Francis Drake Channel, the Sea of Abaco and the Bahama Banks. 

BVI
Once aboard your boat, the BVI is yours to discover. The Moorings

The Moorings base is fully open in Road Town, British Virgin Islands, at Wickhams Cay II, where you will find resort-like amenities to enjoy before casting off. Travelers no longer need to preregister at the travel portal for entry clearance and all Covid entry testing requirements have been lifted as of July 15, 2022. Once aboard your boat, the rest of the BVI is yours to discover—explore the magical Baths on Virgin Gorda, sip a Painkiller at the Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke, and check out the Indians, one of the best snorkeling spots in the area.During the pandemic, the US Virgin Islands surged in popularity as a charter destination due to ease of travel for US residents. Once a well-kept secret, the allure of these islands is now getting the attention it deserves. From The Moorings base at the Marina at Yacht Haven Grande, you can explore all that St. Thomas offers, including abundant shopping and nightlife, then head out to explore beautiful and laid-back St. John, where you can experience the pristine beaches of Cinnamon Bay, excellent snorkeling at Leinster Bay, and even some hiking trails at Virgin Islands National Park.

St. John
Head to explore beautiful and laid-back St. John in the USVI, where you can experience the pristine beaches, excellent snorkeling at Leinster Bay, and even some hiking trails. The Moorings

The Moorings base at the Abaco Beach Resort in Marsh Harbour, Bahamas, reopened at the end of 2021 after recovering from the devastation wrought by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. “While the impact of the storm can still be seen on the main island,” says Ian Pedersen, senior marketing manager for The Moorings, “the cruising ground and outer cays have returned to form and are a spectacular sailing destination once again.” The central location of Marsh Harbour makes it the perfect place to start your exploration of the Abacos—a longtime favorite destination for cruising sailors. Enjoy sailing in the protected waters of the Sea of Abaco to destinations that include quaint villages, such as Hope Town and Green Turtle Cay, and abundant secluded anchorages.

woman on a boat
Now that the world is opening back up, it’s time to ditch the staycation and choose a destination. The Moorings

If you’re looking for an Out Islands experience, an Exumas charter might be for you. Departing from The Moorings base at Palm Cay Marina in Nassau, Bahamas, visitors can then cruise down to the Exuma Cays, a string of 365 islands and cays that stretch for 120 miles. Many sailors who have traveled the world agree that the Exumas are their favorite cruising ground. Once you go, you will understand. From exploring the mangrove creeks of Shroud Cay and the incredible Thunderball Grotto, to the friendly settlement of Black Point and colorful Staniel Cay, the Exumas offer a wide variety of experiences—and unforgettable sunsets on the Great Bahama Bank.

Both Bahamas destinations are fully open to vaccinated travelers, while unvaccinated visitors will need to show a negative COVID-19 test at check-in.

The Magical Med

If your dream sailing vacation includes exploring ancient ruins, villages steeped in history, and a variety of sailing conditions, a sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you’re looking for. “After so many people were unable to sail in Europe during [the pandemic], the Med sailing season is back and as popular as ever,” Pedersen says.

Mediterranean
If your dream sailing vacation includes exploring ancient ruins, villages steeped in history, and a variety of sailing conditions, a sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you’re looking for. The Moorings

From The Moorings bases in Italy, Greece and Croatia, visitors can choose the Med experience that suits them best. Looking for sun-soaked beaches, quaint tavernas and excellent scuba diving? Try a charter from Corfu in Greece. Does visiting an abundance of islands offering everything from wild, barren landscapes to historic towns and lively nightlife sound ideal? A Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter is for you. How about a view of mountain peaks, incredible cuisine and soaking in hot springs? Check out a sailing vacation from Sicily.

Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter
If visiting an abundance of islands offering everything from wild, barren landscapes to historic towns and lively nightlife sounds ideal, a Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter is for you. The Moorings

Whichever you choose, a charter in the Med is an incredible experience. If you are looking to do a bareboat charter in one of these destinations, you will need to have an approved sailing license, such as an International Proficiency Certificate, or have passed ASA 104 (Bareboat Cruising) or US Sailing Bareboat Cruising courses. No certifications? No worries. Crewed charters are available with a captain and a chef.

Crewed charter
No certifications? No worries. Crewed charters are available with a captain and a chef. The Moorings

Ready to Go?

After two-plus years of various lockdowns and travel restrictions around the world, it’s no surprise that stir-crazy sailors are ready to get out there. If you’re considering a charter vacation in the near future, The Moorings strongly suggests booking as soon as possible to ensure you can get the yacht you want. “We are already seeing strong bookings for next summer and even fall of 2023,” Pedersen says.

paddleboarding
After two-plus years of various lockdowns and travel restrictions around the world, it’s no surprise that stir-crazy sailors are ready to get out there. The Moorings

So, gather up your crew, choose your destination and go sailing.

For more information and to start booking your charter vacation, visit www.moorings.com or speak to a vacation planner directly by calling 800-416-0247.

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Sailing into Santorini https://www.cruisingworld.com/story/destinations/sailing-into-santorini/ Thu, 20 Aug 2020 20:16:40 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=44244 A cruising couple finds solitude while anchored in one of Greece's most popular destinations.

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Greece­
Our lunch spot offered a view that’s quintessential Greece­—rows of whitewashed buildings perched on the edge of the sea. Neville Hockley

Santorini is probably the most photographed island in all of Greece, and it is easy to see why. The ancient and still-active volcano that forms the archipelago rises dramatically from deep sapphire seas with impressive rock and ash sandwiched together in great horizontal bands of black, gray and red. Each compressed layer is evidence of past eruptions, from the Minoan eruption—one of the world’s largest volcanic events in recorded history—blowing away the west side of the island around 1645 B.C., to the most recent burp in the mid-1900s.

These contrasting layers climb the island’s steep cliffs to meet rich fertile soil plateaus 600 feet above sea level. On these green terraces, row upon row of Santorini’s famous grapes catch the Mediterranean sun, and clusters of dazzling whitewashed houses reflect the light, and, from a distance, look like snowcapped mountains.

Sostis Arvanitis
Sostis Arvanitis, the lone fisherman, is with two of his goats near their home on Palea Kameni. Tobias Schorr/nature-discovery-tours.com

My wife, Catherine, and I had been sailing in the Mediterranean Sea for only three months, but Greece was unlike any other country we have cruised since we set sail from New York more than 12 years and 40,000 nautical miles ago. In fact, so entirely captivating are these islands, they have already joined the honored ranks of our most memorable cruising regions in the world, rating among the legendary archipelagoes of French Polynesia, New Caledonia, Australia and Indonesia.


RELATED: Sailing into Yialos, Greece


No visit to Greece would really be complete without feasting your eyes on Santorini, an island so striking that it is regularly featured to represent the entire country. We detoured south in favorable northeasterly wind only to find that due to the island’s overwhelming popularity, the one and only marina on the southern shore is now home base to a large fleet of local charter catamarans. A quick call on the VHF confirmed that there was absolutely no room for the likes of Dream Time, our 38-foot Cabo Rico. We arrived as the entire fleet was departing for the evening’s sunset cruise, and watched as a convoy of more than 20 45-foot catamarans, each heavily adorned with tourists, motored full steam along the rugged southern coastline before swinging north to enter one of the world’s largest sunken calderas. Dream Time fell in line but was quickly left behind.

During our day ashore, Catherine and I discovered that the best part of Santorini, at least for us, was indeed the view.

Santorini is truly stunning, but the combination of steep cliffs, a deep rocky seabed, and shorelines exposed to wind and swell makes it less than ideal for mariners and a tad tricky to anchor, especially if you wish to leave your boat unattended. With fading light and uncomfortable southwesterly seas wrapping around the island, there were few options as to where to spend the night, so using a trip line to retrieve our ground tackle if needed, we anchored inside the 5-mile-wide caldera on the edge of a petrified lava plug. As the last of the charter catamarans returned south to the marina, Dream Time was left alone, anchored under a clear canopy of stars off the “burnt islands”—Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni, mountainous heaps of jagged volcanic rock in the center of the caldera.

Oia
Catherine navigates the steep climb from Dream Time’s mooring to the town of Oia. Neville Hockley

The next morning, we reclaimed our anchor from the rocky bottom (trip line not required) and set off to find Dream Time a safe berth for the day. We sailed from the lava islands in the middle of the caldera to the village of Oia (pronounced EE-ah), just 3 miles away on the northern rim, where we quickly made friends with Capt. Cosmos, a colorful character and local charter-boat owner, who kindly offered the use of his mooring for the day while he ferried a group of tourists around the caldera and outer shoreline.

Santorini
From a distance, the terraced buildings on Santorini resemble snowcapped mountains. Neville Hockley

During our day ashore, Catherine and I ­discovered that the best part of Santorini, for us at least, was indeed the view. After touring the island in a rented Fiat 500 and stocking up on supplies (which included a few choice bottles of Santorini red), we enjoyed a two-hour lunch perched on a balcony with a panoramic view of the crater, with cruise ships moored in the distance and Dream Time berthed just below. The scene—complete with two Byzantine church domes painted sky-blue and a peach-colored bell tower nestled among a canopy of white roofs overlooking the caldera—is one of the most famous in all of Greece.

We returned to Dream Time just 15 minutes before Capt. Cosmos arrived to reclaim his mooring, and in a light ­westerly wind, we unfurled our genoa to sail the 3 miles south back to the lava ­islands. We hooked a mooring surrounded by a mass of shiny black boulders in a tiny cove on Palea Kameni (Old Burnt Island), and as we settled in for the night, we were surprised to discover an old fisherman living alone among the heaps of volcanic slag.

Tourists packed the island to capacity while Dream Time lay at rest in a volcanic wasteland, anchored on the edge of a lava island.

The fisherman’s house, which appeared not much larger than a garden shed, was built within the side of a lava flow. With its tidy, curved whitewashed roof and chunky stone walls, it expressed all the quirky charm of a Hobbit home. His two fishing boats were tucked in comfortably, moored just a few feet from the rocky shoreline, and each were painted yellow with matching orange accents, providing cheery contrast to the otherwise black surroundings. Scattered around his property were carefully stacked piles of collected debris: sheets of corrugated iron, heaps of old rope, darkened timber, tires, nets and tools. From our cockpit, we watched as the lone fisherman shuffled slowly around the rocks that surround his life, followed closely by his dog, a giant German shepherd, who eyed us with suspicion, anchored so near to his territory.

T-shirt shop
Tourism is huge on the island, and there are more than a few T-shirt shops along the ­narrow streets. Neville Hockley

It was a most peaceful yet surreal setting; just across the caldera, thousands of cruise-ship passengers and tourists packed the island and resorts to capacity while Dream Time lay at rest in a volcanic wasteland, anchored on the edge of a lava island, home to a Greek fisherman.

The next morning, we raised our mainsail with the sun. As we sailed away, we noticed the old fisherman was sprinkling grain on the stony ground, whistling softly to call goats that hopped down from the black rocks above and gathered around him to feed outside his little house, which rests alone in the center of an active volcano, surrounded entirely by the sea.

To read more about Neville and Catherine Hockley’s world voyage, visit: zeroXTE.com.

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Sailing into Yialos, Greece https://www.cruisingworld.com/story/destinations/sailing-into-yialos-greece/ Wed, 29 Apr 2020 20:51:28 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=44631 The crew aboard Dream Time tries out Med mooring for the first time when they arrive at the Greek island of Symi.

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Cabo Rico 38
Backing up the full-keeled Cabo Rico 38 Dream Time to a town quay in the Med has the potential for plenty of follies. Neville Hockley


We’re anchored in the Greek island of Symi, stern tied to a stone quay in the picturesque pastel-colored village of Yialos—a town so absolutely idyllic and harmoniously composed, you would think it the work of Athena.

It is a Med-mooring experience at its finest, one where you step from the transom of your boat right into a Mediterranean postcard: a local cafe or taverna just a few feet from your cockpit, where chairs and round tables draped in checkered cloth rest on cobbled streets warmed by the sun, and depending on the time of day or your mood, you can order a cup of coffee accompanied by a warm loaf of sweet tsoureki, or a glass of chilled local retsina wine.

Med mooring is a technique of berthing in the Mediterranean Sea that, due to the vast number of boats cruising the region and the absence of any discernible tidal range, allows vessels to anchor and tie stern-to a dock or quay, typically in the center of town.

This was our first stern-to mooring in a Mediterranean town, and it quickly became an unforgettable experience. By sheer proximity you feel a connection to the community, and after just a few days, when locals recognize you as being more permanent than the day tourists arriving by ferry from Rhodes, they begin to include you in their day, sharing smiles, pleasantries, local walks and island secrets. One merchant offered his car should we feel the urge to explore the island, and a store owner included a free bottle of local red wine with our groceries. Right away, we felt at home here.

It was early in the cruising season, so there were only three other yachts berthed alongside Dream Time, our 1981 Cabo Rico 38, but during peak summer months, dozens squeeze together on the quay, filling it past capacity and jostling for room with barely fender space to spare. But for now, at least, the cafes and quay are unhurried, and while sailors relaxed in their cockpits, locals and tourists smiled down as they passed, some stopping to ask questions about the boats or the voyages. For me, the relaxed intimacy of feeling connected to a small seaside community is one of the great pleasures of a Mediterranean mooring. But it can come at a price.

Opa!” is a Greek exclamation traditionally reserved for smashing plates or shouting loudly after stubbing your toe on a deck cleat. But over the years, its meaning has evolved to also express joy and celebration. But because Med mooring can be a tricky business, more often than not, especially when berthing in Symi, the traditional cry of “opa!” can regularly be heard echoing across the amphitheatrical bay as new arrivals or departures struggle with their ground tackle.

Symi Harbor is 40 to 60 feet deep with a rocky mud bottom that a local pilot book describes as poor holding. The narrow harbor requires anchors not only to be carefully placed to avoid crossing the chains of your immediate neighbors, but also aligned to avoid snagging the anchors and chains of boats berthed on the opposite quay.

Dropping the anchor in the right location is a mild challenge, but backing your boat toward a crowded quay while paying out chain and negotiating your stern into a space barely the width of your beam can seem almost impossible, especially if you’ve had little practice with the maneuver or there’s a brisk crosswind and your boat is like Dream Time—a full keel, no bow thruster and stubborn as a Santorini mule when going astern. Let’s just say that the potential for an enthusiastic “opa!” runs high.

Cruising the Med
Cruising the Med in the shoulder season definitely has its perks, namely space on the dock and open tables in the tavernas. Neville Hockley

Local officials seem happy to add to the chaos, blowing whistles to get your attention before loudly shouting orders (in Greek) at arriving captains, and heckling those they deem incompetent or take a dislike to. And if that’s not enough to make you clench your jaw, all this typically happens under the amused gaze of hundreds of spectators sipping a drink while lounging in the cafes and tavernas that line the quay within perfect viewing distance.

With great relief, Dream Time’s arrival was one that found an almost empty quay and just a light breeze. We dropped the anchor in 45 feet, and with a scope of 4-to-1 had both stern lines passed to a local official and secured to bollards in just a few minutes, and received only one blast from the whistle. Other captains were not so lucky—one foreign yacht flying a rather weathered Greek courtesy flag was spectacularly reprimanded and ordered to immediately purchase a new one from the local chandlery. Another yacht lost its mooring pole when attempting to untangle a snagged chain, and after finally freeing itself, miraculously managed to snag another. And all this excitement occurred in just a single afternoon.

Dream Time, unfortunately, did not manage to escape an “opa!” moment. Frustratingly, when our neighbor departed, due to the poor placement of their ground tackle the night before, they dragged us down the dock before relocating our anchor just off our bow, shortening our scope and requiring us to completely reset our berth. But weather conditions were favorable, it was all good practice and, we later learned, a routine exercise of the colorful Med-mooring experience.


RELATED: On the Hook in Delos, Greece


Most captains here seem skilled in the art of unfouling ground tackle using a simple technique that involves raising their anchor, looping a line under the snagged chain to take the load, then releasing the rope, allowing their neighbor’s chain to fall back to the seabed. Considerate assailants will attempt to drop a lifted hook back to where they found it; if not, the victim will have to reset their anchor and scope, much to the amusement of those ashore cheering from the comfort of a lounge chair.

Our second “opa!”—and one experienced by all the yachts berthed in Symi that morning—occurred at 0700, when an early car ferry entered the harbor along with an impressive wake that cascaded around the stone walls, causing all the boats to stretch their lines and surge forward and aft over 6 feet. Boats with shorter stern lines and passerelles, and perhaps berthed a little too close, collided with the quay, where stone crunched without ­mercy against swim platforms and fiberglass transoms before captains and crew—most fresh from their bunks and wearing very little—emerged to start engines and engage transmissions.

Dream Time survived unscathed thanks to a giant fender ball we’ve been carrying around the world for 12 years and, until Symi, had used only once, while transiting the Panama Canal. Our outboard engine, however, which was clamped to the stern rail, clipped the wall, resulting in a mildly bent propeller. But this, we think, is a small price to pay to be stern-tied to one of the prettiest towns in all of Greece.

Neville Hockley and his wife, Catherine, have recently crossed the Atlantic and are spending the winter in the Caribbean before closing the loop on their circumnavigation. To read more about their voyage, visit zeroXTE.com.

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On the Hook in Delos, Greece https://www.cruisingworld.com/on-hook-in-delos-greece/ Thu, 16 May 2019 22:53:53 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=40237 Cruisers can anchor right off the shore of Delos, and feel like they have this island of antiquities to themselves.

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Delos, Greece
Cruisers can anchor right off the shore of Delos, Greece, and feel like they have this island of ­antiquities to themselves. At least until the day-trippers arrive. Clare Jenkins

According to legend, during one of Zeus’ myriad extramarital affairs, he impregnated the Titaness Leto whose swelling from their affair caused the notice of Hera — Zeus’ wife and queen of the gods. Hera was so infuriated by her husband’s infidelity that she forbade Leto from giving birth on solid land. After being denied access at every shoreline she encountered, Leto became frantic in her search to find somewhere safe for childbearing, until at last Poseidon (at the request of Zeus) guided her ship to a floating piece of rock not yet rooted to the seabed, called Delos. There she managed to go ashore and through great effort and pain gave birth to twins, Artemis and Apollo — two of the most venerated gods from antiquity.

With such a divine claim, Delos would become one of the most pilgrimaged, important and wealthy islands in the classical world, and upon its shores a bustling and beautiful city full of temples and fueled by commerce grew into great success. Alas, fortunes change and Delos was eventually sacked and robbed by pirates and then all but abandoned for nearly two millennia before being rediscovered by archeologists in the late 19th century.

Today, no one lives on Delos. It operates as a World Heritage Site and one of the best kept open-air archaeological museums in the country. However, visitors from nearby Mykonos come by the ferry load day after day to ramble among the ancient ruins, which are undisputedly impressive. Luckily for those cruising on their own boat in the Greek islands, you can skip the ferry ride and drop your own anchor in the same harbor where ground tackle of all kinds has been laid for well over 3,000 years.

I’ve heard it said that the Aegean Sea is the most-visited cruising ground in the world, and it’s easy to see why. With over 2,000 islands to its claim, not to mention a seemingly endless and richly indented continental coastline, an entire lifetime spent in Greece is still insufficient to explore all of the country’s nooks and crannies. So if you’re like us — visitors from non-EU countries on 90-day tourist visas — then you can forget about “seeing it all.” But even three months is generous when considering that most visiting sailors can only afford to charter for a week or two. Either way, cruising Greece requires narrowing your options — “Do less, achieve more,” as my wife, Clare, would say — but that doesn’t mean missing out.

Ithaka dock
Boats Med-moored and rafted, like these in Ithaka, are a common sight in Greece. Clare Jenkins

In our three months of cruising aboard Champagne, our Dufour 35, we touched 24 Greek islands, some for the briefest of nights, others for weeks of languid indulgence. Some islands provide the ideal opportunity for replacing worn boat items, while others offer little more than a delicious meal with a beautiful view. Some islands are inundated with obnoxious tourist infrastructure, while others are desolate, riddled only with idyllic coves and secluded beaches. Not only do anchorages abound, but the prevalence of public seawalls will change your perspective on cruising the Med.

RELATED: Sail the Greek Isles in Style

Although not a secret to anyone who has visited the Greek islands by boat before, we were earnestly surprised to learn that nearly every harbor offers free dockage along the town quay. Granted, this means Med-mooring against a concrete pier that scarcely offers any amenities, but the feeling of welcome and the spirit of public provision is unmistakable.

Evidence of Greece’s nautical heritage is clearly visible in every harbor: A plethora of colorful, well-kept wooden boats tug at their moorings; piles of fishing nets line the quays, either ready for service or being quietly mended by hand; iron rings are anchored into convenient rocks along busy shorelines, providing additional mooring options should the quay be full.

These are a people who have made their living from the sea far longer than anyone can accurately remember, and as such they understand her bounty and her demands. Safe harbors aren’t to be rigidly orchestrated, they’re to be openly shared. As a culture steeped in interisland travel, Greeks appreciate that the end of a difficult passage is best rewarded with a pleasant sleep, preferably after a hearty meal, while safely tied up in a secure harbor.

Historically speaking, the success of an island was linked to its ease of access, and perhaps that same rule applies today. Public seawalls aren’t just a convenience, they’re a necessary lifeline.

Consider the history of Delos: After successfully birthing her divine twins there, Leto promised great wealth to the otherwise harsh and inhospitable speck of rock by insisting that a vast number of pilgrims would flock there to worship such a sacred birthplace. And sure enough, the island found great success not because of vast natural resources or massive military might, but because it welcomed and met the needs of all who arrived by sea. Although perhaps not the birthplace of sailing, the Greek islands nevertheless serve as a worthwhile and hospitable pilgrimage site for any worshiper of wind and waves.

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Sail the Greek Isles in Style https://www.cruisingworld.com/sail-greek-isles-in-style/ Thu, 30 Nov 2017 12:25:19 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=45761 Greek Sails, a family-run yacht-charter company and sailing school, has been providing exciting Mediterranean getaways since 1983.

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Choose from Jeanneau and Beneteau monohulls when you charter with Greek Sails, a family-run company, in the Mediterranean. Greek Sails

Greek Sails is a family-run yacht-charter company and sailing school that has been providing exciting Mediterranean getaways since 1983. Greek Sails offers everything from custom flotillas and bareboat charters to crewed trips. If you’re not ready to set sail on your own, you can also book a learn-to-sail vacation to hone your chartering skills.

From the company base in Poros, Greece, you can cruise to regions around the isles, including the Saronic, Cyclades and Ionian islands.

Choose from a fleet of mostly Jeanneau and Beneteau monohulls for your sailing vacation.

For more details, contact the company at www.greeksails.com.

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Microburst Mayhem https://www.cruisingworld.com/microburst-mayhem/ Fri, 17 Nov 2017 04:07:19 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=39364 A sudden squall in the Med wreaks havoc and provides a warning to sailors who spot ominous clouds on the horizon.

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A few minutes was all it took for a microburst to wreak havoc on a boatyard in Vliho Bay, in western Greece. Frank Carreras

It was late September in western Greece. Our 40-foot sailboat, Shindig, was anchored near Vonitsa, an attractive little working town nestling on the southern coast of the Gulf of Amvrakia. The usually predictable Aeolian weather had been fretful for several days. Fronts were passing through. Thunderstorms browsed the area, rumbling and sparking discontentedly. Winter was knocking at the door.

In the late afternoon, the sea breeze normally quiets and boats converge on their chosen haven for the night. Our precise location was about a mile to the east of Vonitsa. It’s a wonderful anchorage. We had been coming here for years. The anchorage filled with mostly cruising boats but also a few charterers. There was plenty of space, and the incoming skippers chose their spots sensibly. Then came some darkening of the sky, though it was too early for dusk. I was in the cockpit, while my wife, Chele, was below. It looked like there would be rain, so I closed a few hatches. Apart from the gloom, there were no other sinister premonitions. Nothing we hadn’t seen before.

We were wrong. When the wind came, it grabbed our immediate attention. We were on deck the instant the squall struck. Two of the charter boats dragged, and there were near-misses as they passed through the assembled fleet, their crews goggle-eyed and agitated. But it was soon over, lasting 20 minutes at most.

We learned the next day that they had not been so lucky in Vliho Bay, 16 miles to the south. It’s a teardrop-shaped inlet just over a mile long north to south. At the northern end is a narrow entrance, flanked by a couple of boatyards. The bay is surrounded by steep hills, sloping almost to the water’s edge. It usually offers good shelter, yet in a matter of minutes, more than 30 boats laid up ashore were bowled over, while those afloat almost all dragged or broke free from their moorings. A cruising catamaran capsized at anchor, trapping an unfortunate woman inside. Thankfully and remarkably, she was in an air pocket and was rescued by the proprietor of the Vliho Yacht Club, who dived underneath to pull her out. Tragically, a French sailor fell from his boat and drowned.

It was widely reported that it had been a tornado, but experts disagreed. The evidence pointed strongly toward a microburst. Unlike spinning tornadoes, microbursts take the form of vertically plummeting columns of air within the cores of thunderstorms, which burst outward when they can descend no further. Wind speeds may top 100 knots, but they are quite short-lived — typically just a few minutes at their peak.

The photo shows how one boatyard fared. Hardly a boat was left standing, while just a few hundred yards away another boatyard escaped almost unscathed. Back in Vliho ourselves just a few days later, we met an American couple who were about to sail their sturdy Westsail to Corfu for repairs. They had been laid flat by the wind and held there for some minutes while water poured in through ports and hatches. There was little structural damage, but their electrical system and instruments had been destroyed.

Yes, a bad day in Vliho Bay, but one that serves a warning: There’s more than heavy rain that can descend from within those brooding clouds.

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20 Best Cruising and Sailing Destinations https://www.cruisingworld.com/20-best-cruising-destinations/ Sat, 28 Jan 2017 04:30:23 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=44485 From Caribbean hot spots, to quiet anchorages at the bottom of the world, these are some of the most beautiful sailing spots on the planet.

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Wondering what the best sailing destinations in the world are? Whether you’re planning a sailing charter vacation or a journey on your own boat, these 20 sailing destinations are part of many sailor’s bucket lists. From the isles of Greece to Australia’s Whitsunday Islands, the colorful Caribbean to dramatic Patagonia, these locations offer something for everyone.

Caribbean

windward islands
Windward Islands, Caribbean Cate Brown

Windward Islands

Tropical rainforests, barrier reefs, secluded anchorages: In the Windward Islands, you’ll get a taste of all that the Caribbean has to offer, and plenty of fine trade-wind sailing to boot. For sailors, there are multiple choices for your Windward Islands adventures, and from any of them, you can choose to make your sailing vacation as laid-back or as challenging as you’d like.

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Leeward Islands, Caribbean
Leeward Islands, Caribbean Bob Grieser

Leeward Islands

The Leeward Islands are full of cruising hot spots, with much to offer to sailors, making passing through the Caribbean. lush scenery, vibrant reefs and a laid-back vibe make for the ultimate sailing destination.

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Lesser Antilles, Caribbean
Lesser Antilles, Caribbean Cap’n Fattty Goodlander

Lesser Antilles

The Lesser Antilles, in the Eastern Caribbean, are among the best charter destinations on the planet. Why? Diversity and conditions. The winds, seas and harbors in the Lesser Antilles are nearly ideal 99 percent of the time, and landfalls are perfectly spaced. In many of the most popular chartering waters, destinations are 30 to 40 miles apart — or less. This means you can get up at a reasonable hour, have a thrilling sail, and still manage to clear customs by happy hour.

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Cuba, Caribbean
Cuba, Caribbean David Gillespie

Cuba

Cuba is one of those mysterious destinations for US-based cruisers: close, intriguing, but seemingly out of reach. In 2017, when regulations were a bit more relaxed for cruisers, Cruising World hosted a rally to the island nation. The verdict? Cuba is everything we expected, and so much more.

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USA, Canada and Atlantic

Bahamas sunset
Bahamas, Atlantic David Gillespie

Bahamas

The islands of the Bahamas are a cruiser’s playground — clear water, colorful communities and great sailing. The Bahamas offer endless islands to sail between and explore; from the Abacos to the Exumas, each island is unique.

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Inter Coastal Waterway, USA
Intracoastal Waterway, USA Tom Zydler

Intracoastal Waterway

Those with a mast height under 64 feet can also take advantage of the beauty and convenience of the Intracoastal Waterway on their trip north or south through the East Coast. While navigating the ICW requires lots of motoring, when conditions are good, the sailing is spectacular.

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Cuttyhunk Pond Sailing
Southern New England, USA Paul Rezendes

Southern New England

Cruising through Long Island Sound, anchoring in the Great Salt Pond of Block Island, exploring the coast of Cape Cod – there are endless opportunities to enjoy a romp through Southern New England.

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The Great Lakes Fred Bagley

The Great Lakes

Some of the best freshwater cruising in the world, the Great Lakes offer endless opportunities for exploration. Each lake offers unique cruising grounds, ports and conditions, from uncharted rocky inlets on the Canadian shores, to bustling cities.

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bermuda
Bermuda Danny Greene

Bermuda

For as long as ocean-going sailors have been sailing the North Atlantic, Bermuda has been the crossroads and a popular race destination. But Bermuda is so much more than just a waypoint—it’s also a wonderful cruising destination.

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Nova Scotia, Canada
Nova Scotia, Canada Ida Little

Nova Scotia

Packed with geologic and cultural history, the beautifully quiet coast of Nova Scotia is a nature lovers dream. Spruce trees, granite, grasses, sea, seals and terns, there is no shortage of excitement here.

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Europe

greece
Greek Isles, Mediterranean Lefteris Papaulakis/shutterstock

Greece Isles

The sailing can be challenging, but the landfalls — full of history, diverse towns and tasty cuisine — are worth it. Greece boasts thousands of islands, spread across an enormous geographical area stretching from the Aegean to the Ionian sea. Four of Greece’s five island groups are prime cruising areas: the Cyclades, the Saronic Islands, the Ionian Islands and the Dodecanese. Each group has its own unique character and charm, making each one worth exploring.

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South Pacific

Fiji, South Pacific
Fiji, South Pacific Tor Johnson

Fiji

Cruising yachts from all over the world come to Fiji to anchor in the crystal-clear waters of the South Pacific. This Pacific crossroads is a refreshing break, with world-class snorkeling, beach combing and hiking.

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marquesas
Marquesas, French Polynesia Zoonar/Uwe Moser

Marquesas

Smack dab in the middle of the South Pacific, the remote and untamed Marquesas are an unforgettable sailing stop – if you can get there. The topography of these young islands ­reflects the dawn of time; the exquisite drama of the islands’ violent, volcanic origins has not yet been smoothed and worn, with towering peaks rising above anchorages.

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Tasmania, Australia
Tasmania, Australia Mike Litzow

Tasmania

Tasmania offers world class cruising, friendly, welcoming people, and a rich sailing history. The beautiful anchorages are uncrowded and private, and the sailing is world class. Just ask anyone who has ever sailed a Sydney Hobart Race.

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whitsunday islands
Whitsunday Islands, Australia Kelly Watts

Whitsunday Islands

Pristine white sand beaches begging for footprints; the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park just waiting to be snorkeled; and our charter catamaran tugging on her mooring lines, ready to set sail. Who could resist such a tempting welcome from the Whitsunday Islands? Not us.

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Southeast Asia

Phang Nga Bay, Thailand
Phang Nga Bay, Thailand Cap’n Fatty Goodlander

Phang Nga Bay

Towering rock sculptures rise out of the water in Thailand’s Phang Nga Bay, providing a surreal backdrop for cruising. Anchor among the hongs and hope into a dinghy for an unforgettable experience exploring hidden caves and uncovering secrets from the 10,000 year history of the bay.

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Africa

cape town
Cape Town, South Africa Oone van der Wal

Cape Town

From the blustery southeaster that can blow 45-60 knots for days on end, the “table cloth” on Table Mountain, to the waterfront with all its great seafaring tales and bars and the beaches of the suburb of Clifton, Cape Town has it all. The weather is like Southern California; you can stay active in the great outdoors year round.

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madagascar
Madagascar, Africa Michelle Elvy

Madagascar

Madagascar is a true cruising gem. Its culture is a delightful convergence of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, as evidenced by the gourmet French meals, baked goods, mélange of rum drinks, vibrant materials for both traditional and modern dress, and the combination of French and local Malagasy language.

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South America

Chile, South America
Chile, South America Somira Sao

Chile

The Cape Horn archipelago conjures images of heroic voyages through inhospitable landscapes and harsh, raw conditions, the true beauty Chile is that it’s remote enough to be pristine, but not isolated enough that you feel completely cut off from the rest of the world.

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Antarctica

Antarctica
Antarctica Skip Novak

Antarctica

Cold, unforgiving and a challenge for even the most seasoned sailor, there isn’t quite any place on earth like Antarctica. Just ask anyone who has been, though, and you’ll find that the journey to the bottom of the world was unforgettable.

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Plan a Flotilla in Greece https://www.cruisingworld.com/plan-flotilla-in-greece/ Thu, 13 Oct 2016 22:55:52 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=42519 Bareboat and crewed charters as well as flotillas are available in the Cyclades Islands of Greece.

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Bareboat and crewed charters as well as flotillas are available in the Cyclades Islands of Greece. Poseidon Charters

Poseidon Charters, with more than 24 years of charter experience in the Greek islands, operates cultural sailing tours and flotillas in the Mediterranean. The company is also a bonded, licensed travel agency specializing in yacht charters, by-the-cabin charters, flotillas and mini cruises in a variety of global destinations.

Working directly with trusted owners and operators has enabled the company to build its own fleet of well-appointed, affordable yachts, available for charter from its Athens base in the Saronic Gulf and Cyclades Islands.

Changing economic and political situations have compelled the company directors to reassure travelers that Greece remains a viable and safe place to visit on a sailing holiday. Greece fared well economically in 2015, with its biggest tourism season ever — more than 25 million tourists. The Saronic Gulf is nearly 300 miles away from the eastern Greek islands and the nearby border crossing into Turkey. Poseidon Charters’ chosen charity for 2016 is Doctors Without Borders/Médecins Sans Frontieres. MSF offers refugee assistance as well as sea-rescue activities and mobile clinics throughout Greece.

For details, contact the company at www.poseidoncharters.com.

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Glorious Greek Isles https://www.cruisingworld.com/glorious-greek-isles/ Wed, 10 Aug 2016 23:10:54 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=44576 The sailing can be challenging, but the landfalls — full of history, diverse towns and tasty cuisine — are worth it.

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Greek Isles, Mediterranean Lefteris Papaulakis/shutterstock

Greece boasts thousands of islands, spread across an enormous geographical area stretching from the Aegean to the Ionian sea. Four of Greece’s five island groups are prime charter areas: the Cyclades, the Saronic Islands, the Ionian Islands and the Dodecanese. Each group has its own unique character. In all of them, you can visit the more popular places, opt to sail off the beaten track, or do a bit of both. Everywhere, archaeological and geological attractions abound. Unless you have 10 to 14 sailing days, focus on one island group.

The Cyclades are Greece’s most popular islands. Beginning 45 miles from Athens and stretching south and east, they’re classically Greek: soaring above the deep-blue sea in the Aegean’s center, adorned with white stucco houses and windmills. Itineraries are diverse, from bustling towns and nightlife on Mykonos, Paros and Ios, to the vistas of Santorini, to the tranquility of islands like Folegandros and Amorgos. The ancient city on Delos is comparable to Pompeii. On Milos (where the Venus de Milo was discovered), geological attractions are breathtaking. Throughout the Cyclades, pristine white beaches abound.

Saronic Islands

The Saronic Islands begin about 25 miles from Athens, nestled between there and the Peloponnese Peninsula. They are clustered fairly close together; charters usually include at least one mainland port. Itineraries can include busy, picture-perfect islands like Hydra; Poros or Aegina for nightlife; quieter harbors in the hamlets of the Peloponnese; or a visit to the ancient harbor and theater at Epidaurus. While beaches aren’t as plentiful as in the Cyclades, there are plenty of excellent places to swim.

Ionian Islands

The Ionian Islands, stretching along Greece’s west coast, lie 200 miles from Athens. Known as the “Greek Caribbean,” the islands rise lushly from an aquamarine sea. Houses have a Venetian flair. Here you’ll discover the famous island of Ithaka, alleged isle of Odysseus, and Corfu, which inspired writers like Shakespeare (The Tempest) and brothers Lawrence and Gerald Durrell (Prospero’s Cell and My Family and Other Animals). There are many good beaches, and the snorkeling is some of the best you’ll find in Greece.

The Dodecanese

The Dodecanese island group lies along the west coast of Turkey in the eastern Aegean. Classic white stucco on some islands contrasts with Venetian- and Turkish-influenced architecture on others; there are bustling town hubs as well as secluded anchorages. From Patmos in the north to Rhodes in the south, there are many attractions, including the site where St. John is said to have written The Apocalypse (Patmos); a slumbering volcano (Nisyros); and the Castle of the Knights of St. John (Rhodes), to name a few.

Whichever island group you choose, your charter company will provide itinerary options and suggestions. Following the wind is up to you!

What to know if you go

Climate: Warm but seasonal. In summer, sunny skies prevail. Best sailing months are May through October.

Winds: Vary according to area. Cyclades: ­often strong; Saronics: more moderate, sheltered by the mainland; Ionian: generally ­lighter; Dodecanese: more moderate, ­sheltered by the Turkish mainland. Throughout the season, very strong fair-weather winds called the meltemi are possible and are usually more frequent in July and August.

Sailing Level: Can be challenging, especially in the Cyclades. There are few aids to navigation; most hazards are not marked. Bareboat skippers need solid sailing and navigational experience and familiarity with Med mooring. A captain’s license or notarized sailing resume may be required by some companies.

Lynda Morris Childress and her husband charter their Atlantic 70 cutter, Stressbuster, throughout the Greek Islands.

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